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Foam density and foam firmness are two separate things, and it’s worth understanding the difference before you order.

Refers to the weight of foam per cubic metre. Higher density foam contains more material, lasts longer, and holds its shape better over time. Lower density foam is lighter and more affordable but compresses more quickly under sustained use.

Describes how hard or soft the foam feels. A firm foam isn’t necessarily high density, and a soft foam isn’t necessarily poor quality. The right combination depends on the application.

For seat cushions that will see regular daily use, a medium to high density foam (around 35 to 45 kg/m³) with a medium firmness is a reliable choice. For dining chairs or occasional seating, a slightly lower density can work well.

Back cushions take less direct weight than seat cushions, so a softer, lower density foam is usually appropriate. A density of around 28 to 35 kg/m³ with a soft to medium ILD works well for most back applications.

For decorative or lightly used pieces such as headboards, arms, and bolsters, a lower density foam is generally fine. Many upholsterers prefer a medium firmness here for clean, crisp lines.

Memory foam responds to body heat and pressure, distributing weight more evenly. It’s a good option for comfort-led projects and mattress toppers where a conforming feel is part of the brief.

Not sure which grade is right for your job? Call or email us and we’ll help you choose.

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Webbing forms the foundation of most upholstered seats, whether you’re working traditionally or with modern materials. Choosing the right type affects the longevity and feel of the finished piece.

Traditional jute webbing is the standard choice for antique restoration and traditional upholstery. It has a natural give that works well with coil and serpentine springs and has been used in the trade for generations. It’s woven from natural fibres, biodegradable, and takes tacks or staples cleanly. Correct tensioning and interlacing is essential to avoid early sagging.

Modern rubber webbing is used in contemporary furniture where springs are not present. It provides the base tension for the seat and is long lasting, easy to fit, and doesn’t require interlacing. It’s a good choice for modern dining chairs, sofas, and production upholstery.

Lighter polypropylene webbings are widely used in modern production upholstery. They’re cost-effective, durable, and well suited to pieces where deep structural support is not required.

Webbing is available in different widths, typically 50mm and 60mm. Wider webbing covers more surface area per strip, so fewer strips are needed across the seat. For heavier pieces or high-use furniture, wider webbing is the more dependable choice.

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Glover Bros Advice Hub staple img

Choosing the right staple for your air gun makes a real difference to how cleanly and securely materials attach. Here’s a practical overview of the main variables.

Fine wire staples are used for lighter fabrics and top coverings where you don’t want the staple to distort the weave or cause puckering. They’re well suited to fabrics like calico, cambric, and lighter velvets.

Medium wire staples are the most versatile choice and suit the majority of upholstery tasks. They work well with most woven fabrics, vinyl, and leather.

Heavy wire staples are for jobs that need extra holding power, such as attaching hessian, bottoming cloth, or webbing in production environments.

The crown is the horizontal part of the staple that sits on the surface. A wider crown distributes pressure more evenly across the material, which helps prevent tearing around the staple point on finer fabrics.

Leg length determines how deeply the staple sets into the frame. For softwood frames, a 10mm to 12mm leg is standard for most upholstery work. For harder timbers, a longer leg ensures a firm fix.

Always check that your staples match your air tool. Most professional upholstery guns use Tacwise or equivalent branded staples. Mismatched staples cause jams and can damage the tool.

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The right adhesive depends on what you’re bonding, the working time you need, and whether the bond needs to be permanent or repositionable.

Contact adhesives are applied to both surfaces, left to become touch-dry, then pressed together for an instant, strong bond. They’re widely used in upholstery for bonding foam to frames, fabric to card, and wadding to foam. Working time is short and bonds are typically permanent. Ventilation is essential when using solvent-based contact adhesives.

Water-based formulas offer a lower-odour alternative to solvent-based products. They take slightly longer to tack off and the bond is generally less aggressive, but they’re suitable for a wide range of upholstery applications and a better choice where ventilation is limited.

Spray adhesives deliver a fast, even coat and are particularly useful for bonding wadding or fibre to foam where full surface contact is needed across a large area. Spraying from different distances gives either a light repositionable bond or a firmer permanent bond.

Hot glue guns are used in soft furnishings and decorative upholstery for fixing trims, gimp, braid, and buttons. They’re fast and clean but are not suitable for structural bonds or large surface areas.

Specialist foam adhesives are formulated to bond foam to foam or foam to fabric without degrading the cell structure. These are the correct choice for built-up cushion work where compatibility with foam chemistry matters.

Not sure which adhesive is right for your job? Contact us and we’ll point you in the right direction.

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